This weekend was another one of no decent waves and/or crappy weather. I seriously need to get back into surfing regularly, both for (1) the therapy aspect - when you are our in the line up, especially in larger waves, all focus is on the ocean and waves (and ocassional eye candy) - and (2) the good exercise aspect. The photo above - which I call "Huge Hatteras" - is deceiving unless you realize that the shore break was about 8 feet where it was hitting the beach.
The photo is from a surf trip to the North Carolina Outerbanks (Pea Island area) about five summers back that some of us from Christian Surfers (the story of my membership to be discussed in a future post) took when a hurricane was about 300 miles offshore and generating huge surf of at least 15+ feet. My son and two of his friends were along with me. I seriously thought I was going to drown that day when I was slammed by a rougue wave out at the farthest break zone and taken almost all the way down to the bottom.
I decided after that episode that I'd leave the really big waves to others.